Manizales

Department: Caldas Population: 400,000 Altitude: 2150m Climate: Mild, cool at night (av. temp. 19ºC)

Manizales, a small, friendly city located in the department of Caldas, was founded by an expedition of 20 Paisas (people from Antioquia) in 1849. Its distinguishing feature is that it is the hilliest city in Colombia. Almost every street is tilted at some energy-sapping angle. Walking uphill can be a bit of a struggle (especially at over 2000m) and when heading downhill some of the streets are so steep that there is little option but to run down. But all of this gives Manizales its distinct feel and from various points offers great views over the city. Manizales is also the gateway to the Nevado del Ruiz snow-capped mountain to the south of the city.

Things to see and do

The city centre of Manizales is quite small and can be easily seen in an hour or two. If you're staying at one of the hostels or hotels in La Zona Rosa (the restaurant and bar district near the stadium) you can walk to the centre along Avenida Santander (carrera 23) in about half an hour. Walking also enables you to enjoy the views off to the left over much of the city.

The first main attraction you'll see as you enter the centre of the city is Parque Caldas. Parque Caldas isn't particularly attractive, but it's a decent enough place to soak up the downtown atmosphere and do some cheap shopping, particularly in Centro Comercial Parque Caldas opposite the park.

A couple of blocks further on from Parque Caldas is Plaza de Bolivar where the imposing 113m high Catedral Basílica de Manizales sits. An interesting tour of the cathedral is available which includes going up to the top of the tower with good views over the centre of the city. The tour is offered thursday to sunday (and public holidays) from 9am to 6pm and costs $5000 pesos.

North-west of the city centre and up the hill is the neighbourhood of Chipre. This is a great place for views over Manizales and indeed of a large part of the country: It is claimed that on clear day you can see 7 departments including the distant Chocó. Probably the best place from which to take in the views is the observatory on Avenida 12 de Octubre (the main road which runs along the edge of hill) and is clearly visible from most parts of Chipre. (The photo above left is the view of Manizales city centre from the observatory.)

Chipre can be reached from the city centre in about half an hour by foot or in a few minutes by taxi. It can get quite busy at weekends and is visited in droves by families. At Chipre's highest point is El Monumento a Los Colonizadores, a great momument paying homage to those who colonised the region. The area around the monument is popular with kite flyers. It makes a delightful scene, particularly at weekends, when the skies are filled with colourful kites fluttering in the strong breezes.

Accommodation

Budget:

Mountain House: Calle 66 No. 23B-137 (new address) Tel. (6) 8874736 website

The original and best backpackers in Manizales. Friendly, helpful staff, cozy atmosphere. Dorm rooms $18,000 pesos/night. Hot showers, free breakfast, coffee. Cable TV + DVD collection. Internet access. Common area. Excellent location, near restaurants, nightlife district and stadium all 5 mins walk away. Highly recommended.

Kaffa Experience: Calle 67 No. 23A-33 Tel. (6) 890 2945 website

One of Manizales' newer hostels. Comfortable rooms, hot showers, common area, TV with DVD collection, kitchen inc. free breakfast and coffee, internet, free wifi. Excellent location near restaurants, nightlife district and stadium. Recommended.

Sport and Recreation

Once Caldas football club achieved international recognition on 1st July 2004 when they became only the second Colombian team to win the Copa Libertadores (Latin America's Champions League) after beating Boca Juniors on penalties. As is so often the case in south american football the nucleus of that successful squad was sold the following season and for several years struggled to follow up that success with more silverware. However, that slight dry spell came to an end in the first half of 2009 as they were crowned Colombian champions after defeating Junior in the final.

Once Caldas play their home matches at the Estadio Palogrande near the Zona Rosa district in the east of the city.