Popayán

Department: Cauca Population: 300,000 Altitude: 1740m Climate: Mild (av. temp. 20ºC)

Popayán is a stunning colonial city a couple of hours south of Cali. It is know as ‘the white city’ for its white colonial architecture. The city's colonial district covers a fairly large area of the centre and forms the working heart of the city (as compared to other colonial cities such as Cartagena whose colonial sectors are now predominantly tourist attractions). Despie its undeniable beauty and tourism potential, and its proximity to Cali, Popayán remains a quiet, relaxing city. During the day the streets can become a bit crowded with commuters on foot and in cars, but it could never really be described as stressful.

Perched at an altitude of 1740m Popayán's cool climate is more remiscent of that of the coffee region than of sweaty Cali just up the road. The sun can be quite strong during the day, but nights are cool.

Things to do / Places to go:

In theory it is possible to 'do' Popayán in a day, but depending on what floats your proverbial boat it's probably worth spending a few days here at least to soak up the calm atmosphere. Without doubt the first thing to do upon arrival is to simply walk down to the impressive central park/square 'Plaza Caldas' and from there stroll up any of the adjacent streets and weave your way through the whitewashed buildings. Some of the buildings can be entered and almost all contain some kind of picturesque courtyard. Parque Caldas ranks as one of my favourite squares in the whole country and it's a fantastic spot to relax in for a while and watch the world go by. The cathedral to the south of the square is worth peaking inside.

A couple of blocks north of Parque Caldas along carrera 6 you come to two bridges; the larger (and more modern of the two) is called Puente del Humilladero. The smaller footbridge down to the left (looking north) is one of the oldest bridges in Colombia and is called Puente Chiquito. By crossing Puente Chiquito you will supposedly be following in the footsteps of the great liberator Simon Bolivar who is said to have traversed the bridge some two centuries ago. Once the novelty of trampling the same ground as history's greats fades you can wander around and savour the beauty and quaintness of the area around the bridges and the stream over which they pass. The area is popular with artisans and the usual colombian trinkets (bracelets, necklaces etc) are sold in the area just before you reach Puente del Humilladero.

Popayan's largest church, la Iglesia de San Francisco, is situated two blocks west of Parque Caldas next to the Monasterio Hotel. It's a beautfiul church with a small plaza in front of it.

Iglesia La Ermita is the city's oldest church a few blocks east from the south east corner of calle 5. From the slight elevation of the church is a nice view back along calle 5 with the trees of Parque Caldas poking over the slated roofs (see photo, left).

To the north east of Parque Caldas lies Morro de Belalcazar, a hill with a great view overlooking the city. At certains times of the year trees covered in pink blossom can be seen peeking out from between the white buildings; a beautiful sight! At the base of the hill is a small mock colonial town (similar to 'Pueblito Paisa' in Medellin). Within it are small shops selling snacks and artwork.

Further south on a different hill is Belén chapel. The view from here isn't quite as good as from Morro de Belalcazar, but it's still worth the effort if you have time.

Festivals

Popayán is the place to appreciate the spectacular Easter (semana santa) processions. People start arriving early in semana santa and hotel rooms rapidly disappear. The processions on thursday and friday are impressive. Thick crowds line the streets so get there early if you want a decent viewing spot.

Accommodation

Hotel Dann Monasterio: Calle 4 # 10-14,  Tel. (2) 8242191

This is Popayán's most exquisite hotel. Converted from a monastery in the 1950s, Hotel Monasterio (photo, right) is a delightful hotel which includes comfortable rooms with plasma tv with cable, a large bathtub (a rarety in Colombia), a swimming pool, sauna and steam room. Breakfast is included.

Hostel Trail Guesthouse: Carrera 11 # 4-16,  Tel. (2) 8317871, Cel. 3146960805  website

New, comfortable hostel including common area, kitchen and internet.

Casa Familiar Turistica: Carrera 5 # 2-07,  Tel. (2) 8244853

One of Popayán's first hostels. A small, basic, but comfortable place. Friendly staff. Couple of blocks from Parque Caldas.

Food and Drink

Lonchería La Viña restaurant (Calle 4 # 7-79) a block west of Parque Caldas is a great place to enjoy lunch or dinner. The steaks here are fantastic!

Whilst in Popayán try the delicious small empanadas filled with a kind of peanut butter paste.

Nightlife

In keeping with the general laid-back mood of the city the nightlife tends to consist of quaint cafes or bars occassionally with a small dancefloor. The city is pretty much dead after 11pm during the week. At weekends things liven up with many popular night spots within a few blocks of Plaza Caldas. One of the crazier options available in the "party chiva", a traditional colombian bus-turned-discotek, which does a loop through the city. The chivas run on Fridays and Saturdays. Entrance is $5000 pesos.

Transport

The bus terminal and airport are located next to each other in the nortwest of the city. A taxi to the centre will take just 5 minutes. You can probably walk it in 15 minutes.

Buses run regularly to Cali (2 hours), Pasto (6 hours), San Agustin (7 hours).