Santa Marta
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Department: Magdalena Population: 420,000 Altitude: Sea Level Climate: Hot (Average temp. 28ºC) |
While Cartagena serves as the Caribbean coast's main attraction for package tourists and anyone else with relatively deep pockets, Santa Marta and the surrounding region has emerged as the coast's most popular destination for backpackers and budget travellers. Here, prices are more affordable and the region's beauty is at least as impressive as in the Cartagena area. Santa Marta and the nearby towns of Rodadero and Taganga abound with hotels and hostels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs to satisfy budgets from shoestring upwards. Just an hour or so east of Santa Marta, the splendid beaches and jungle of Parque Tayrona draw many travellers, although not so many as to damage the feeling of 'getting away from it all'.
The number of toursits visiting the Caribbean coast of Colombia increases year on year and efforts have been made to improve the infrastructure of the regions two principal tourist centres, Cartagena and Santa Marta. In the last couple of years Santa Marta has changed its face even more than Cartagena, in particular the beachfront and the area around Parque Santander. Of particular note is a large new tourist port which is being built at the Rodadero end of Santa Marta's main beach. The port is due to be completed by December 2010.
Things to see and do
Most of the attractions, hotels and restaurants of Santa Marta lie between the beachfront and Carrera 5 (also called Avenida Campo Serrano). The beachfront is pleasant, although the beach itself is not. By the end of day the narrow strip of sand is typically covered in a variety of litter. Better to save your beach sunbathing for the stunning sands of Parque Tayrona.
On Carrera 1 (the beachfront street) are many restaurants offering various dishes including of course a range of fresh fish. Prices are above average. At night the atmosphere becomes lively as the restaurants turn into bars and music fills the street.
About halfway along Carrera 1 is Plaza de Bolivar, Santa Marta's main plaza which streches back for two blocks. It's an attractive place with plenty of shade providing relief from the strong Caribbean sun.
Pretty much every town and city in Colombia, and indeed in much of South America, has a Plaza de Bolivar, but in Santa Marta it is particularly poignant as it was here on 17 December 1830 that the great liberator Simon Bolivar died. Bolivar's remains were transfered to his birthplace of Caracas, Venezuela, but a statue in the centre of Plaza de Bolivar depicts the liberator on horseback.
Opposite Plaza de Bolivar on the beach promenade is a monument to Rodrigo de Bastidas, founder of Santa Marta back in 1525.
The plaza is surrounded by all of the major Colombian banks. On the Calle 14 side of the plaza you can also find the Museo del Oro (the Gold Museum) and the Alcaldia (Mayor's office) housed in a large yellow colonial building.
Walking one block up from Plaza de Bolivar along Calle 15 and then one block right down Carrera 4 brings you to Plaza de la Catedral upon which sits the whitewashed Cathedral that claims to be the oldest church in Colombia.
Four blocks south of Plaza de Bolivar lies Parque Santander (photo, right). The area has recently been remodelled and pedestrianised and at night young people congregate in the park and in the street bars that surround it.
Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
About 4km from the city centre is Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino, the hacienda where Simon Bolivar spent his last days and died. It is now a tourist attraction and has been converted into a small museum. There is also a pleasant botanical garden within the grounds.
Accommodation
La Brisa Loca: Calle 14 No. 3-58, Tel. 3183030666 website
The number one budget choice in Santa Marta. Opened in 2009 this large hostel contains eleven dorm rooms and suites, spacy bathrooms and communal areas including a bar, pool (see photo, right) and rooftop terrace. Highly recommended.
Aluna Casa: Calle 21 No. 5-72, Tel. (5) 4324916 Cel. 3107093684 website
Another excellent option in the historic centre of Santa Marta is Aluna Casa. Designed, built and run by Irishman Patrick Fleming, Aluna Casa is convenient, clean and comfortable. All dorm and private rooms are ensuite. It includes a roof terrace and garden. Breakfast is also available at an additional cost.
Food and Drink
As with other coastal towns and cities the staple in Santa Marta is fish. The restaurants along Carrera 1 all other varied menus which include several different types of fried fish usually accompanied with coconut rice (delicious!), salad and patacones (plantain which is mashed into a sort of small pancake and then fried).
If the prices of the seafront restaurants are a tad steep then simply stroll into the centre of the city where you'll find meals for $7000 pesos or so.
Merka Restaurant (Calle 10C No. 2-11) is a good bet for seafood. Try also Agave Azul (Calle 14 No. 3-58), a great mexican restaurant prepared by a New York-trained chef.
Nightlife
Nightlife in Santa Marta has improved a lot over the past five years or so. Many of the old seedy bars have gone and a varied nightlife scene has emerged. A couple of recommended venues follow.
Crabs, whose original home was Bogota, has re-settled in Santa Marta (Calle 18 No. 3-69) and is far and away Santa Marta's best rock bar.
La Puerta (Calle 17 No. 2-29) is a nightclub that is popular with both Colombians and foreigners that want to part hard until late (photo, right). The music is a mix of rock and latin music. It's probably the best option for those looking to get "on the pull".
El Rodadero
El Rodadero, a southern suburb of Santa Marta, is a beach resort town popular with Colombians. It has a nicer beach than Santa Marta and Taganga and has some decent nightlife at weekends. The beachfront is dominated by large apartment blocks and resembles the types of tacky resorts you find on the Mediterranean. Be warned that at peak times (late December/early January, Easter week, June/July) Colombians flock to El Rodadero in droves and the whole place becomes a swarm of humanity (see photo, below).
Buses to El Rodadero run south along Carrera 1 The bus costs about $1,200 pesos and take about 25 minutes. A taxi ride takes about 10 minutes.
Sport
This is a region rich in football history. The Santa Marta area has been a hotbed of footballing talent for decades. By far the most famous player from Santa Marta and, arguably, in the history of Colombian football is Carlos "El Pibe" Valderrama. Valderrama remains Colombia's most capped player with 111 appearances. He captained the Colombia national team during it's most successful period during the 1990s, appearing in the 1990, 1994 and 1998 world cups. He was renownd for his excellent vision and passing and created a huge number of goal assists despite not being a prolific goalscorer himself. Valderrama's 21 year career, which included spells in France, Spain and USA, began at his local Santa Marta club Union Magdalena. In 2002 a staute of the great Valderrama was unveiled outside the Eduardo Santos stadium where Union Magdalena play their home matches. The statue includes Valderrama's characteristic blonde permed hair.
These days Union Magdalena play their football in Division B since being relegated from the top flight in 2005. Their only championship came in 1968.
The Eduardo Santos stadium is located in the east of Santa Marta. A taxi ride there from the beach area will cost about $4,000 pesos. Matches usually take place on Saturday or Sunday afternoons. Check the official Dimayor website for a list of fixtures.
Transport
The main bus terminal in Santa Marta is about a 10 minute taxi ride from the historic centre. Buses leave to Barranquilla (2 hours), Cartagena (4 hours), Bogota (16 hours), Bucaramanga (9 hours), Medellin (17 hours).
Buses also run to Maicao (4 hours) on the Venezuelan border. In Maicao you can take a minibus or, more commonly, a shared taxi to Maracaibo in Venezuela. A better option, however, is to catch a direct bus from Santa Marta that runs directly to Maracaibo. Expreso Brasilia is probably the best company to use for these direct journeys.
Santa Marta's airport lies on the coast to the south of the city. You can catch a bus marked "El Rodadero Aeropuerto" from Carrera 1 (about 45 mins). Alternatively take a taxi (about 20 mins). There are flights to all main destinations in the country. Flights to and from Santa Marta for peak holiday periods sell out very quickly so book at least a couple of months in advance.