San Agustín
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Department: Huila Population: 28,000 Altitude: 1730m Climate: Mild, cool at night (av. temp. 18ºC) |
San Agustin is a small town set in lush green mountains in the department of Huila. Traditionally a very off-the-beaten track destination it becomes more and more popular with tourists each year, especially as security has improved dramatically in the last few years.
Long before any Europeans set foot on the continent, the San Agustín region was home to an ancient civilisation. Many centuries have passed since their extinction, but several hundred stautues remain dotted around the rolling green hills. Visiting these stautues is a great excuse (if one were needed) to head off into the surrounding countryside.
Things to do / Places to go
Statues
Very little is known about the ancient civilisation which created the statues in the San Agustin region. They are thought to have vanished by the 12th century long before the Spanish arrived. The ancient statues found here range in size from half a metre or so up to around 7m. Many of the statues are grouped together in parks or connected by walking trails, and many are conveniently found in picturesque settings.
The biggest collection of statues is found at the Parque Arqueológico a couple of kilometers west of San Agustín. It takes a good couple of hours to wander around the entire park and there's also a museum featuring statues and artifacts found in other parts of the region.
El Tablón and La Chaquira are two more sites worth visiting. They are connected on a pretty 
trail from San Agustín. You first arrive at El Tablón, a small group of statues and a museum, before continuing on a winding path to La Chaquira. Here you find a number of statues carved into rocks. What is likely to be much more impressive, though, is the spectacular view down into the Magdalena river valley.
The Alto de los Idolos contains the second biggest collection of stautes and is located across the Rio Magdalena via the Puente de la Chaquira.
Salto de Bordones (see photo, right) and Salto de Mortiño are two spectacular waterfalls located several kilometers from San Agustín. The typical way to see these sights is on a jeep tour your which also takes in some of the best archaelogical parks and takes you down to the Magdalena River.
San Agustín town
In contrast to the surrounding landscapes, the town of San Agustín is fairly unspectacular. Up on the hills there are some nice hotels/hostels with vistas of the lush green hills, but basically San Agustín is a rather average town. There are some ok bars and restaurants, particularly on Calle 3 and a couple of churches, but little of any great interest. The real draw of San Agustín is its proximity to the dramatic scenery mentioned above.
Accommodation
La Casa de Francois: Tel. (8) 8373847 Cel. 3143582930
This has long been a traveller favourite and rightly so. A great little place up on the hill at the back of the town with terrific views over the valley. The hostel is fairly rustic, but comfortable and has a lovely atmospehere. There are some dormitories built on stilts with hammocks outside and dramatic views. Recommended.
Finca El Maco: Tel. (8) 8373437 Cel. 3112714802 website
Situated 1km from the town, this ecological cottage offerscabins with hot water, cooking facilities, organically-grown food, book exchange, internet, and even massages.
Transport
Most of the tourist spots mentioned above are walkable. However, if you plan to travel further afield (or happen to be feeling a bit lazy) it is possible to grab a taxi, or, failing that, most locals 
will be happy to let you hitch a ride in their jeep, on their horse and cart or any other miscellaneous form of transport they happen to have for a small fee (they may not ask for anything, but always give something). Make sure you always account for how you're going to get back at the end of the day as many of the small roads and tracks are pretty much deserted of traffic and so hitching a lift back might not be as easy as you imagine (as I myself discovered!)
Buses between San Agustín and Popayán (to the west) take around 7 hours. Be warned that the road isn't all that great and the journey can take longer if the conditions are bad as they can be in the wet season. About halfway along the road the snowy peaks of the Nevado del Huila is visible to the north (on your right hand side if you're travelling from Popayán to San Agustín). Take some good music or other entertainment as getting some kip is a bit difficult as you bump along the stony roads.
If you're travelling north to Neiva you're in for a more comfortable ride. From San Agustin take a bus or taxi to Pitalito. From there buses frequently run to Neiva along smooth paved roads. The road is relatively straight and is lined by green farms with cattle grazing.