Neiva & Tatacoa Desert

Neiva Department: Huila Population: 375,000 Altitude: 440m Climate: Hot (average temp. 28ºC)

Neiva, the hot, sticky capital of the department of Huila sits on the bank of the Magdalena river. There is a little to see or do here, rather it acts as a jumping off point to more interesting locations such as the Tatacoa desert (described below) and San Agustin. Those travelling south to San Agustin will pass through large grassy plains with the snow-capped Nevado del Huila off to the right.

Accommodation

Casa Constantino: Calle 1A No. 7-61 Tel. 8386574

A decent budget option for backpackers.

Tatacoa Desert

This area in northern Huila is the driest in Colombia. To reach the desert from Huila take a small bus (colectivo) from the bus terminal to the town Villavieja. From there you can get a taxi or minibus to cover the short drive to the desert. From Neiva the terrain gradually gets more and more arid passing through Villavieja until the vegetation suddenly disappears completely. The vegetation-free area is actually relatively small, but it is quite impressive. Rather than sand the desert consists of a flaky earth which crumbles underfoot. Cacti dot the foreground with Huila's greener hills off in the distance. There is next to no shelter so sun cream is essential.

At the side of the main road which passes through the desert is a small observatory. For a small fee you can rent a tent for a night and enjoy the wonders of the celestial night sky through the lens of the telescope. The telescope is available to use as part of a presentation given by an astronomer in the early evening.

If you're feeling a tad peckish after clambering around the desert, the shop by the observatory sells sweets made from cactus. Although not quite to my taste I did notice others woofing them down so give them a try and make up your own mind.