Cartagena

Department: Bolivar Population: 1.2 million Altitude: Sea Level Climate: Hot (average temp. 28ºC)

Cartagena de las Indias is the most impressive colonial city in Colombia and, arguably, Latin America. To take a walk through the streets of then old city is to step back to the time of the Spanish. The buildings are beautifully conserved, horse-draw carts cruise the narrow streets, families dine at streetside restaurants and lovers steal kisses in leafy plazas. And all this is in addition to the beaches, San Felipe castle and the proximity of the stunning Islas Rosarios. So brave the crowds (and, depending on your budget, the prices!) and spend a few days in one of Colombia's absolute must-see destinations.

Things to see and do

La Ciudad Antigua (the old city):

Cartagena's main attraction is without doubt the old colonial quarter located to the north east of the city. The colonial quarter forms an area of about 1 square kilometer and the majority of it is contained within a large stone wall built along the line of the coast and around along the edge of the bay. The usual place to start a tour of the old city is at the Puerta del Reloj (Clocktower) which contains the main gate. After passing through the main gate you arrive at Plaza de los Coches, a busy place with sweet sellers, bars and restaurants. This is also one of the spots where you're most likely to be approached by tour and bar reps. Most speak English and some can be quite persistant, but if you're not interested then a polite rebuff will generally be suffiecient.

Once you pass through the narrow Plaza de los Coches the space opens up to form Plaza de la Aduana, the old city's largest plaza. Here you find banks with ATMs and several shops.

Walking along the left hand edge of the triangular plaza where the line of banks are located brings you to a shortish paved walkway leading to Plaza de San Pedro Claver. On the left hand side just before reaching the Plaza is the Museo de Arte Moderno (Modern Art Museum) whcih contains two floors of interesting paintings and sculptures. Outside the museum are a series of interesting metal sculptures depicting scenes of everyday life (see photo, above). The sculptures form a line that bends round into Plaza de San Pedro Claver and the large Iglesia de San Pedro Claver which dominates the plaza.

Walking right (as you face Iglesia de San Pedro Claver) up Claver Ladrinal street for two blocks takes you to the centrepiece of the old city, Plaza de Bolivar. This small plaza/park offers some welcome shelter from the sizzling Caribbean sun and is surrounded on all sides by delightful colonial architecture.

Three of the buildings which border the plaza are particularly significant. On one corner lies the Cathedral with its large distinctive dome visible from all over Cartagena. On the eastern side of the plaza is the Palace of the Inquisition which now takes the form of a museum dedicated to the instruments of torture used during the inquisition as well as other objects from the colonial and pre-Columbian periods. The Gold Museum (El Museo del Oro) can be found on the Calle de la Inquisicion side of the plaza. The museum contains displays from Indians who inhabited the region before the arrival of the Spaniards.

Walking up Calle de la Inquisicion one block and then right one block up Calle Santo Domingo brings you to Plaza de Santo Domingo upon which sits the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. Plaza de Santo Domingo is a great spot for outside dining. As with most restaurants in the old city the food is good and the prices are high. A good bet for an evening bite to eat and/or drink, if the budget stretches.

If you continue straight up Calle Santo Domingo (which becomes Calle de la Factoria), you'll arrive at the large stone city wall which forms the edge of Centro. You can mount the wall and walk along the top in either direction. At times the wall gets quite narrow so take care, especially on a windy day! If you walk to the left a block down you'll be treated to a colourful view along Calle Don Sancho right down to Plaza de Bolivar and the towering Cathedral (see profile photo at top of this page). There is also a small plaza where the Heredia Theatre sits.

Continuing along the wall for another five blocks or so brings you to the northeastern corner of the old city. Here the walls thicken and contain 23 dungeons (known as Las Bovedas) which were used as storage and later as a prison. They have now been turned into tourist shops. The souvenirs tend to be reasonably priced, at least compared to the rip-off merchants which wander the beaches and streets of Cartagena. Outside the shops people sell paintings of the old city. Wander up and down and get a few quotes before you agree the price. Most are willing to barter a bit.

Castillo San Felipe (San Felipe castle)

Situated about a 10 minute walk to the east of the Old City across Laguna de San Lazaro, Castillo San Felipe is one of Cartagena's top tourist attractions. It was constructed in the middle of the 17th century and includes a series of tunnels, many of which are open to visitors. There are great views from the top of castle over the bay to Bocagrande and Laguito.

Entrance to the castle is currently $16,000. You buy the ticket at the ticket office at the entrance and then present it halfway up. A small shop at the top of the castle sells refreshments and souvenirs.

Bocagrande

Bocagrande is an upmarket sector of Cartagena which consists of a strip of land about 4 blocks wide between the sea and the Bay of Cartagena (Bahia de Cartagena). The city's most popular beaches are found in Bocagrande although they are not a patch on other beaches in the Cartagena region, most notably those in the Islas Rosarios.

Carrera 2 (also called Avenida San Martin) is the main street which runs along the length of Bocagrande. This strip contains a large number of hotels, restaurants, casinos and shops. Some restaurants are quite upmarket, but you can also find many cheaper eateries. Bocagrande is also a good sector in which to get your hands on some souvenirs, sold both in shops and more informally on the street.

On the opposite side of Bocagrande from the beach is a pleasant walkway along the edge of the bay. It is popular with walkers, cyclists and skaters particularly in the evening. The land bends round at a right angle and juts out into the bay forming a natural entrance to the bay. The thin strip of land is called Castillogrande and is lined by a number of luxury hotels and apartment blocks.

Accommodation

Cartagena Hostels / Backpackers

Hotel Marlin: Calle de la Media Luna (Calle 30) No. 10-35 Tel. (5) 6643507

Located in the historical centre of Cartagena five minutes from the beach. Internet, Cable TV, Kitchen.

Casa Viena: Calle San Andres No. 30-53 Tel. (5) 6646242 website

Also in the historical centre. Includes internet, rooms with air con, book exchange, kitchen, Cable TV. Also organise sailing trips to Panama.

Holiday Hostel: Calle de la Medialuna No. 10-47 Tel. (5) 6640948

Another popular hostel in the historical centre of Cartagena.

North Star Backpackers: Carrera 3 No. 8-96 Tel. (5) 6550241 Cel. 3145821624

A good bet if you're looking for a comfortable in the Bocagrande sector of the city.

Cartagena Hotels

The following list of accommodation consists of top end, boutique hotels in the Old City of Cartagena:

La Merced Boutique Hotel: Calle Don Sancho No. 36-165  Tel. 57 (5) 6647727 Website

Casa Claver Boutique Hotel: Calle de las Damas No. 3-134 Tel. 57 (5) 6551771 Website

Anandá Boutique Hotel: Calle del Cuartel No. 36-77  Tel. 57 (5) 6644452 Website

Aguamarina Boutique Hotel: Calle Santodomingo No. 33-16 Tel. 57 (5) 6640797 Website

Hotel Agua: Calle de Ayos No. 4-29 Tel. 57 (5) 6649479 Website

Hotel Casa Lola: Calle del Guerrero No. 29-(108-118) Tel. 57 (5) 6641538 Website

The following list of accommodation consists of top end, boutique hotels in the Bocagrande and Laguito sectors of Cartagena:

Decameron: Cra 1a No. 10-10, Bocagrande Tel. 57 (5) 6654400 Website

Hotel Dann Cartagena: Cra 1a No. 1-60, Laguito Tel. 57 (5) 6650000 Website

Hilton Cartagena: Av. Almirante Brion, Laguito Tel. 57 (5) 6650660 Website

Hotel San Martin: Av. San Martin No. 8-164, Bocagrande Tel. 57 (5) 6654631 Website

Hotel Toledo: Av. San Martin No. 6-40, Bocagrande Tel. 57 (5) 6652888 Website

Food and Drink

Being the international tourist destination that it is, the quality and variety of food available in Cartagena is among the best in Colombia. The Old City and Bocagrande in particular abound with restaurants offering both local and international cuisine. Meals in the tourist sector of the Old City tend to start at around $15,000 pesos for the typical local dish of fried fish, cocunut rice, patacones (plantain which is mashed into a sort of small pancake and then fried) and salad (see photo) in a moderate restaurant. A meal in one of the areas more elegant locales could set back anything from $40,000 pesos.

Cartagena Nightlife

Nightlife in Cartagena is geared towards the more upmarket tourist. Many younger visitors actually find Cartagena slightly disappointing in terms of variety of bars and nightclubs, but there are some excellent places to party dotted around the city.

Nightlife in the Old City

The old city caters more for the more mature crowd. The area abounds with classy restaurants catering to national and international tourists. There are also plenty of cafes and bars for a pre or post meal drink.

Perched up on the western ramparts of the old city is Cafe del Mar, one of the most popular bars in Cartagena, principally for its spectacular views out over the Caribbean Sea and of the skyline of Bocagrande along the shore to the south.

Also popular is Cartagena's Hard Rock Cafe located on Plaza de la aduana. The bar is on the second floor with some nice views over the plaza.

Some of the outdoor plazas are also a good option for a cool beverage whilst soaking up the charm of the old city. Plaza de los Coches inside the main gate and Plaza de Santo Domingo are the two most frequented.

The old city can be a little bit lacking in terms of nightclubs. There are a couple of decent clubs on the Plaza de los Coches that attract a big crowd even early in the week. A good bet is Tu Candela bar that plays a mix of salsa and western music. Electronic parties are frequently advertised by reps on the streets of the old city. If you're on the pull / looking to pick up (depending on your vernacular) keep in mind though that some of the night spots in Cartagena's old city are popular hang outs for prostitutes.

Nightlife in Getsemani

A better option for nightlife, particularly nightclubs, in the sector of Getsemani, just outside the old city. The majority of the bars and nightclubs are located along Avenida del Arsenal which starts at the Centro de Convenciones and continues for about half a kilometer to the Puente Roman (Roman Bridge) which connects Getsemani to the island of Manga. Discoteca Mister Babilla (Calle 24 No. 8B-137), which plays a crossover of mainly latin music, is among the most popular nightclubs.

Also located in the Getsemani district is the excellent Cafe Havana. This cafe/bar/restaurant is a fantastic place in Cartagena to listen to live latin music and the rustic decor adds to the feeling of being in the cuban capital.

Nightlife in Bocagrande

The Bocagrande nightlife scene improves year on year with the opening of more and more bars and nightclubs the majority of which are found along Avenida San Martin.