Bogotá
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Population: 8 million Altitude: 2,600m Department: Cundinamarca Climate: Mild, cool at night (average temp. 14ºC) |
‘Bogota: 2,600m closer to the stars’ runs Colombia’s capital’s tourist slogan. Residents of many of Colombia’s other cities would probably tell you that 2,600m closer to the rainclouds is more accurate as it is commonly put down for its cool, wet climate. However, don’t let any of that put you off. Whilst it is true that Bogota can be a tad damp at times, ‘la capital de la republica’ is an enormous city full of history, culture and excitement.
Bogotanos (or ‘rolos’ as they are often known) will tell you that the city has changed dramatically in as little as the last ten years. It has cleaned itself up and now boasts a well-organised (although very crowded) transport system called the Transmilenio, modern shopping malls as well as a myriad of trendy bars and nightclubs. Combine this with the history-filled streets of Bogota’s colonial centre, La Candelaria, and the many museums, art galleries, theatres, churches and you have a city that simply cannot be missed.
Things to see and do
La Candelaria is Bogota’s colonial centre. It was in La Candelaria that Bogota was founded at Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo in 1538. Colombia’s most important government buildings can be found in this sector, the majority located in the area around Plaza Bolivar (see photo above) including the Presidential Palace (La Casa de Nariño) and the Justice Palace (famously invaded by guerrilla group M19 in 1985 and subsequently stormed by the army). Around Plaza Bolivar can also be found the mayors headquarters (Edificio Lievano), the Congress building (Capitolio Nacional - see photo, left) and on the eastern side Primada Cathedral, behind which the mountains rise up to the landmark church of Monserrate 
(see below). There are many museums, theatres and other specific places of interest to visit in this area (some of which are mentioned in below), but a good idea is simply to wander the streets for a few hours to soak up the atmosphere and see what you come across. The area is home to many universities, including the famous Universidad de los Andes and Universidad Externado, which means that the streets are full of students during the day and there are plenty of cheap places to eat, drink and surf the net.
Monserrate
Monserrate is one of Bogota’s most famous landmarks and it’s hard to miss from most parts of the city. The white church is situated at the top of the mountain, at an altitude of well over 3000m, and from here you see the vast majority of the city (excluding the far north which is obscured by the curve of the mountain.) Many visitors to Bogota never venture into the south of Bogota and, unless arriving by plane, don’t really get a feel for the true size of the city. From atop Monserrate, however, the extent of the capital is evident. The city can be seen stretching way out to the poor 
slum area of Ciudad Bolivar on the edge of the city many kilometres away.
To reach the summit there are three options:
- Cable Car (teleferico)
- Funicular Railway
- By foot
It is worth doing either the ascent or descent (or both) by foot. Besides working off the previous night’s beers the walk up gives a bit more perspective on the city (especially the centre) and provides some good photo opportunities of the skyline; something which is lost to some extent at the top, as the city appears more as a sprawl of concrete. Bear in mind that by the time you reach the top you’ll be at over 3100m so take your time making your way up there (particularly if the aforementioned beers were drunk in great quantity.)
Edificio Colpatria
Another way to get above the hustle and bustle of downtown Bogota is to head up to the observation deck of Bogota’s tallest building, Edificio Colpatria. It is situated on Carrera 7 (one of Bogota’s main north-south arteries) at the intersection with Calle 24, near the Parque de la Independencia. From the top you have access to 360º views around the city. There is also a small café with a big map on the wall to work out what you’re looking at. (the view in the photo above is looking north along carrera 7.)
Museo del Oro (Gold Museum)
Bogota’s most famous museum (and possibly the most important gold museum in the world) houses a huge number of gold objects created by Colombia’s pre-Hispanic cultures. It can be found on the plaza de Santander in the city centre close to La Candelaria. If you only have the time or inclination to visit one museum in Bogota, it’s probably a good idea to make it the ‘Museo Del Oro’.
Donacion Botero
Fernando Botero (who hails from Medellin) is known for his unique style of painting bloated versions of, among other things, horses, fruit and the Mona Lisa. So if a chubby-looking apple floats your boat, this gallery, containing a large collection of his paintings and sculptures is worth a visit. There are also works from various international artists including Picasso. The Fundacion Botero is located a couple of blocks up from Plaza Bolivar at the intersection of Calle 11 and Carrera 4.
Usaquen
The picturesque neighbourhood of Usaquen is located in the north on the lower slopes of the mountains above Carrera 7 between avenidas 116 and 127. It is a peaceful district, full of expensive houses and a pleasant leafy plaza surrounded by fashionable restaurants and bars. Usaquen is a great place to go to in the evenings if you’re looking for somewhere a bit quieter than ‘La Zona Rosa’ or ‘Parque 93’. Around the plaza you’ll also find a number of shops selling art and nic nacs. On Sundays in the central park storytellers ('cuenteros') entertain small crowds with their various tales.
Parque Simon Bolivar
In a city of 8 million inhabitants Parque Simon Bolivar provides an excellent escape from city life. 
Located towards the north-west the park contains a large lake and lots of trees and green space ideal for kicking a ball about, lobbing a frisbee, walking, jogging, taking a nap or any other ‘park activities’ you can think of.
Maloka
Maloka is a large interactive science and technology centre featuring a variety of displays. It is situated towards the north-east, relatively near to Parque Simon Bolivar.
Accommodation
Hostels / Backpackers:
Platypus: Carrera 3 No. 16-26, Tel. (1) 3520127 website
The original Bogota hostel. German, the knowledgeable, friendly owner and his staff provide excellent info on Bogota and all parts of Colombia. The hostel is a little rustic, but the atmosphere in the common areas is usually great. Hot showers, kitchen facilities and a good book exchange are included.
Sue Candelaria: Carrera 3 No. 14-18, Tel. (1) 3412647 Cel. 3144640774 website
Comfortable hostel with free internet and wi-fi, hot showers, courtyard with heaters, TV rooms and a ping pong table.
Hostal Fatima: Calle 14 No. 2-24, Tel. (1) 2816389 website
Clean and comfortable. Includes a bar, private garden, and even a sauna!
Cranky Croc Hostel: Calle 15 No. 3-46, Tel. (1) 3422438, Cel. 3144275299 website
Run by seasoned traveller, Andy, the Cranky Cros Hostel includes everything you need for a comfortable stay including a lounge with a fireplace, a bar, and a cafe.
Hostel DN: Calle 11 No. 00-38, Tel. (1) 3520932 website
Hostel DN (Destino Nomad) is another good bet. Breakfast included.
Alegria's Hostel: Carrera 2 No. 9-46, Tel. (1) 2868047, Cel. 3134191288 website
Includes breakfast, book exchange, game room and musical instruments.
Villa Candelaria Hostal: Carrera 3 No. 15-97, Tel. (1) 2842348, Cel. 3014310834 website
Another good option.
Bogota Nightlife
La Zona Rosa stretches for several blocks centred around Calle 82 with Carrera 13 and contains an ever-increasing number of trendy bars and restaurants. If you have a large wad of pesos and a desire to be seen with the 'in-crowd' this is the place for you. There are a number of British/Irish style pubs serving decent beer including the dark, bitter stuff (lovely!). Bogota Beer Company (known in ex-pat circles as the BBC) is the most well known with various locations around the north of the city, but similar places are constantly popping up. There are a number of nightclubs in the area aswell. Just take a wander around, get chatting to the locals and see where the night takes you.
Parque 93 is, as the name suggests, a park at the junction of Calle 93A and between Carreras 11A and 13 which rivals La Zona Rosa in terms of variety of establishments, cost and flashiness. The park in the centre of all the merriment is attractive and frequently decorated with various lights and other bits and pieces dangled from its trees. A similar range of places can be found as in La Zona Rosa, bars, pubs, restaurants, nightclubs etc.
Usaquen is a great place to go in the evening for a quiet drink or romantic first date. See the 'Things to do/Places to go' section for more information on this attractive neighbourhood.
La Candelaria also contains some great nightlife spots, especially if you're looking for something a bit more studenty or bohemian. There are some good places around the intersection of Carrera 4 with Calle 15, near Parque de los Periodistas which the Transmilenio crosses on its way up to the Las Aguas station. My personal recommendation is Cafe Escobar Rosas which contains a cozy basement popular with students.
Festivals
The Ibero-American theatre festival is held in Bogota every two years. It features dance, music, circus and theatre performances all over the city for 2 weeks. The festival will next be held between 19th March - 4th April 2010.
Rock al Parque is a large rock festival that takes place in October in Parque Simon Bolivar. It is one of the biggest in Latin America.
Concerts
In the last few years Bogota has become a popular stop on the tours of many of the world's most famous music artists. Some of the bigger acts to perform in the last few years include Metallica, Iron Maiden, Coldplay and The Killers.
There are many venues throughout the city, although the largest concerts tend to take place in Parque Simon Bolivar.
The best place to find news of upcoming concerts and to buy tickets is tuboleta.com.
Shopping
Atlantis Plaza: Calle 81 # 13-05 website
Atlantis Plaza is located in La Zona Rosa at Calle 81 with Carrera 13. It is small compared to other shopping malls, but is a fashionable place for trendy Bogotanos. It is made up of 5 floors, with a cinema on the top floor. The Hard Rock cafe at the front entrance is a popular hangout.
Andino: Carrera 11 # 82-71 website
Andino is traditionally one of Bogota's most popular and highly regarded shopping malls. It owes a lot to its location as it is slap bang in the middle of La Zona Rosa a couple of blocks from Atlantis Plaza (see right). As well as a large number of shops Andino contains a big food court on the top floor and also a casino.
Unicentro: Avenida 15 # 123-30 website
One of Bogota's older shopping malls, Unicentro contains over 300 shops, a food court, casino and bowling alley.
Santa Fe: Calle 183 # 45-03 website
Opened in 2006, Santa Fe is the largest shopping mall in Bogota and Colombia. It contains over 500 shops, a food court and cinema. It is located in the district of Suba in the north-east of Bogota on the Autopista Norte with Calle 183. To get there by public transport take the Transmilenio to the northern end of the line (Portal del Norte) and then take the Transmilenio connection bus (alimentadora) called '2.1 Mirandela'.
Hacienda Santa Barbara: Carrera 7 # 115-60 website
Located in Usaquen near to where carrera 7 meets avenida 116 is the shopping mall Hacienda Santa Barbara. It is a mixure of old and new where beautiful colonial shops and small plazas seamlessly mold into the mall's shiny, modern section (see photo, right). The plazas in the old section contain some lovely cafes and bars which become busy with Bogota's northerners after office hours. The newer part includes a large food court. Many Bogotanos will tell you that shopping centres like Andino and Santa Fe are better, but personally Santa Barbara rates as my favourite.
Metropolis: Carrera 68 # 75A-50 website
This is one of Bogota's older shopping malls. It doesn't rate as one of Bogota's most attractive or exclusive shopping venues, but includes over 100 shops and a cinema. It can be found in the north-west at Avenida 68 with Calle 75.
Gran Estacion: Avenida El Dorado # 62-47 website
Another of Bogota's new shopping malls, Gran Estacion has become very popular since its opening in 2006. It has over 300 shops including an Exito supermarket and a cinema. It is situated in the west of the city about 10 minutes from El Dorado International Airport.
San Andresito: Around Carrera 38 Calle 12, stretching for several blocks
This is the place to come is you're after electronics, clothes, watches, music or pretty much anything, including items of dubious origin. It's a great place to pick up a bargain or two. Be cautious though, especially by trying out any electrical goods before handing over your pesos. The area is reasonably well policed, but as San Andresito is in a slightly rougher part of town just be a little more cautious than you would in other parts of the city.
Sport and recreation
Football:
The two traditionally big football clubs in Bogota are Millonarios and Santa Fe. Millonarios, having a glorious history, has a bigger support in Bogota than Santa Fe, although Santa Fe also has a large fan base. Despite being 'big guns' in the Colombian football league both have somehow gone decades without winning a championship. Millonarios won their last championship (their 13th) in 1988, and Santa Fe have not lifted the trophy since 1975.
For over 5 decades Millonarios proudly held the record of most championships won. Indeed when they won their last championship in 1988 it seemed improbable that any team would catch them 
such was their dominance. America de Cali had caused slight concern in the 80s with five straight championships in 82, 83, 84, 85 and 86 which, together with their previous triumph in 79, gave them a total of 6 championships. America de Cali have steadily added to their tally over the last couple of decades, whereas Millonarios have been stranded at an unlucky 13. In December 2008 America de Cali beat Medellin in the final of the Copa Mustang to finally equal Millonarios' record of 13 championships, a feat which will only add to the anger and frustration of Millonarios' long suffering fans and to the weight of pressure on the manager and team to win that elusive 14th championship.
Both teams play their home matches at the stadium ‘Nemesio Camacho El Campin’ (Transmilenio station ‘El Campin’ on carrera 30) which has a capacity of around 45,000.
In 2007 La Equidad Seguros gained promotion from Division B and have arguably had more success in the last couple of years than the ‘big two’. They even managed to qualify for the final in their first year in Division A, losing out to Nacional after a disastrous 3-0 defeat at home in the first leg.
Tejo:
Traditionally a working class game ‘tejo’ is now enjoyed by people from all backgrounds and you will hear many Bogotanos (generally the men) mention a game of tejo in their weekend plans (almost always accompanied by copious beer drinking.) Tejo involves throwing a metal disc into a sand pit mounted on a stand with the object being to land on a small explosive called 'mecha'.
Bullfighting:
Bullfights take place at the Plaza de Toros de Santamaria next to the Parque de la Independencia and near the Colpatria skyscraper. Bullfighting season is January and February.
Cycling:
Every Sunday many of Bogota’s main streets are closed off and made available to cyclists. The routes, known as ‘ciclovias’, are very popular with people cycling, jogging, roller skating or simply walking with the family. The routes are well policed and you’re never too far from someone selling refreshments along the side of the streets.
Transport
Travelling Within Bogota:
Bogota's principal public transportation system is known the Transmilenio and is a cross between a bus and tram system. The double-length buses run along the majority of the city's main arteries 
with frequent stops every minute or so. A new route is currently under construction to link the airport to the city.
Normal buses also run to all parts of the city. The routes are sometimes a bit confusing and take a while to get used to, but don't be afraid to have a quick word with the driver to make sure he's heading in your direction.
All taxis are fitted with taxi meters. The final number displayed on the small screen is found on a chart, usually positioned somewhere in the front of the taxi, and corresponds to the fare.
Travelling To and From Bogota:
The main bus terminal is located in the east at Diagonal 23 No. 69-60 not too far from the city centre. Buses leave to all parts of Colombia. Medellin 9 hours. Cali 12 hours. Bucaramanga 9 hours, Cartagena 20 hours, Santa Marta 16 hours (all times approx.)